The Ancient Tabo Monastery Threatened by Climate Change

Climate change is damaging the 1000 year old Tabo Monastery in southeast Spiti. Its famous and historically important wall paintings and sculpture dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries could be victims of new weather patterns if they are permitted to continue to affect the buildings.

View of the Tabo Monastery from the north, with the new monastery in back, the old monastery in the middle, and the town of Tabo in front and to the viewer’s left.

Since the inception of the Tabo monastery in 996 C.E., the Spiti valley has experienced dry weather. With global warming and changing rainfall patterns Spiti has recently seen more rainfall than accustomed to in the past. Increased moisture means more seepage and cracking in the old monastery buildings' traditional mud brick architecture.

The Golden Temple, to the south of the Main Temple.

The art of Tabo Monastery is particularly important for understanding the practice of Buddhism a millennium ago in North India and Tibet. The paintings and sculptures in the Main Temple were created between 996 C.E. and 1042 C.E. and unlike most institutions of its age or older its early artistic program representing the Vajradhatu-mandala, the Pilgrimage of Sudhana, the Life of the Buddha, and other Buddhist images and Deities is intact. The painting and sculpture include many beautiful and significant images which need to be protected.

Chortens and the Small ‘Bromston Temple (viewer’s left) and the Maitreya Temple viewed from the western side of the temple compound.

More information can be found in an article by Pratibha Chauhan in The Tribune's Spectrum section titled "Rain Ruining Relics", published on Sunday, July 25, 2010. A highly recommended and beautifully illustrated book on Tabo Monastery and its art is "Tabo, a Light for the Kingdom" by D.E. Klimburg-Salter.

2010 Barley Harvest in Spiti

The main crops grown in Spiti are barley, peas and apples. Barley is a traditional Spitian crop used to make Tsampa. There are seven types of Tsampa: Chhumdon, Jenpey, Sra-jolma, Phiyan-pang, Sran-be, Tsoe-we and Zar-we, though only three or four of these are still commonly used in Spiti.

After the barley ripens the harvest begins mid-August. It starts first in the lower parts of Spiti, at Tabo, Poh, and Mane, then moves to higher elevations, Kaza, Rangrik, and the rest of Spiti. There should be no rain before or during the harvest so the barley can be dry when cut.

Traditional methods are still used to harvest and process the crop. After the barley is cut it is brought to a location where it is threshed using donkeys and horses to separate the edible grain from the remainder (chaff, stem, leaves) of the plant.

Threshing with donkeys and a horse at Mudh, Pin Valley.

There is a very beautiful Bhoti inviting song to the horses and donkeys that help with the threshing. While it is sung they are shown special respect. It goes:

MAMA OD KI GYALBO DEN LA PHEO

DEN LA PHEO

HOLO ZA HOLO ZA - HOLO ZA

HOLO ZHIB NA GA JUNG DULNA GA - DULNA GA

ZHIBO MIDUG THOLO LO - THOLO LO….

Once the barley is threshed, the remainder is removed, leaving the grain which can then be easily gathered. The remainder is bundled up and stored for animal feed and other uses.

Separating the remainder of the barley plant from the grains after threshing at Chichem Village.

Carrying the bundled remainder of the barley plants to storage at Kyomo village.

The bundled remainder of the barley carried away from the threshing pile at Kyomo village.

Favourite Photos

During May, June and July 2010, while we held the Introductory Computer Course at the Kachen Dugyal Memorial Society Girls Hostel in Kaza, the girls, teachers and staff took many fine photographs. Though we know who took some of the photos that we collected, most are anonymous. There are many other favourite photos but here are four we especially like.

Above Kee Gompa, near Gete, on July 4, 2010; the girls from the hostel are participating in a Sang-sol ceremony for the long life of H.H. the Dalai Lama. The photograph was taken by Nawang Jampa, who teaches the use of Bhoti on computers.

Kee Gompa, July 10, 2010, showing a key moment of the Cham Dances held that day. The burning of the torma completes the removal of all spiritual obstacles. Photograph by Lobsang Gelek.

The KDM Girls Hostel on July 14, 2007. In a quiet moment a girl reads a book. Photographer unknown.

A group portrait of the girls with two ladies and baby from Chicham. It was taken near Chicham on July 17, 2010, the day of the annual community picnic. Photographer unknown.

A Poem and Birthday Wish

This poem was written on the eve of July 6, 2010 by Lobsang Tsering in celebration of the birthday of His Holiness the Dalai Lama.

A red-letter day in the history of humanity,
When a wondrous child was born in Tibet.
Myriads of flowers bloomed,
Homes and hearths were adorned,
A ray of hope for peace was glistened,
A stream of hope was granted to distraught ones,
When a simple Buddhist monk walked on this earth,
His clear and candid discourses,
His witty and well-timed sense of humor,
Touched the soul of millions,
Captured the heart of millions,
He is loved by everyone,
He is followed everywhere,
He is the hope of millions,
He is the hero of millions,
He is the epitome of humility,
He is the source of happiness,
He is The 14th Dalai lama of Tibet.

May His Holiness lives till eons to enlighten the ignorant and disseminate the very essence of love and kindness….
Many Happy Returns of The Day..

Lobsang Tsering

A Visit by Lochen Rinpoche

The Reverend T.K. Lochen Tulku Rinpoche, the XIXth Incarnation of Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo, Spiritual Head and Director of Key Gompa, kindly visited the KDM Society Girls Hostel in Kaza on Wednesday July 14, 2010 where he gave a profound discourse on the Dharma to a crowded room of hostel residents, staff and visitors.

The discourse covered the Four Noble Truths, Dependent Origination and Buddhist Ethics. This was followed by questions from the audience, which Lochen Rinpoche answered, as well as giving advice from His Holiness the Dalai Lama on these subjects. The hostel girls ended the visit with a respectful and joyful offering to Lochen Rinpoche of traditional Spiti dance and song. Lochen Rinpoche expressed His happiness at visiting the hostel and giving the Dharma teaching, and donated 2000 Rupees to the Kachen Dugyal Memorial Society Girls Hostel.

From deep in our hearts resident girls, hostel staff and supporters express our gratitude to the Reverend Lochen Rinpoche for his visit, Teaching and donation, and hope to be blessed again by his presence at the hostel.

Reverend Lochen Rinpoche explains a point of the Dharma to Lobsang Gelek, president of KDM Society

A group photo with the Reverend Lochen Rinpoche

Dance Offering to H.H. the Dalai Lama

The KDM Girls Hostel residents offered a traditional dance of Spiti on the occasion of His Holiness the XIV Dalai Lama's 75th birthday at Kaza monastery. With the hostel girls also is Tsering Norbu, their dance teacher, and Kalsang Angmo, the hostel Ama La. The cultural program included many different performers, including little school girls who also performed a traditional dance of Spiti.

Hostel Girls at Kaza Monastery July 6, 2010

Little Girls at Kaza Monastery July 6, 2010

Sangsol Ceremony 4th July, 2010

Sangsol means a prayer ceremony for Long Life of His Holiness the XIV Dalai Lama. On this occasion we offer sang (incense) to all our Deities and Goddess. For this ceremony we all, including KDM Girls Hostel Residents and monks, moved from Kaza to Gyete about 24 k.m. from Kaza and about 15700 feet above sea level.

The Monks and Residents of the Hostel prayed for long life of His Holiness the XIV Dalai Lama of Tibet. After sangsol we released 18 Goats and Sheep for Long Life of His Holiness the XIV Dalai Lama.

Monks in front of Chorten performing Sangsol Ceremony above Ki Gompa July 4, 2010

Hostel girls chanting above Ki Gompa

Taking goats and sheep from truck above Ki Gompa near Gette village July 4, 2010

Marking goats and sheep before release

Released goats and sheep with banner above Gette